Sunday, March 1, 2009

Tao Jing's Reflections

It was an eye opener for me during this Heritage trail to Kampong Glam and I truly enjoyed the trip. Firstly, though I hang out often with my friends at Arab Street, Haji Lane, I was not aware of the rich historical meaning of the area. The shop houses selling artifacts, carpets, the tea I sipped and the sheesha available in most cafes are deeply influenced by the Middle East culture (The Arabs) but are mainly of a commercial value now.
When I start noticing the surroundings, I now see the information boards explaining the historical background and the Sultan Mosque that is standing tall in the area. I think it’s critical that we continue to spread this interest in the history and heritage of our country to the people around us. As such, at the first instance, I shared with my “Arab Street” buddies on how we were visiting a heritage site every weekend. I am certain that all these heritage meanings will be lost if we do not promote them.
I always wonder when we go to the movies, beaches and popular restaurants at the weekends, why can’t we bring out families and friends to the heritage places. There bound to be authentic food and “exotic” sights to look out for too.
Secondly, in this time that our focus is on the “Singaporean” identity; our shared History, we neglect the notion that the effort to understand the culture of different races may be the key to appreciate our multi racial society. Hence, I am grateful for this opportunity to appreciate my fellow Malay friends at a deeper level.

Tao Jing

Caleb's Reflections

We had to go back to the Kampong Glam area twice. Here is the story.
When I tried opening up the pictures after our first trail, the computer screen showed a blank. I reinserted the memory card that contained all the pictures but out came a ‘memory card error’ message. How eventful. I travelled all the way back to sim lim where I purchased the card and sought help from the shop from which I bought the memory card. Nonchalantly they just gave me an ‘I don’t know what to do face, you’re just one in a million’ face.
Thankfully my group mates (don, tao jing and Jason) were willing to go back again with me. Hence our double take. Putting things in perspective the second trail to the very same places got me more familiarized with the district and its history. In fact we took more pictures and ‘explored’ the area further. We even had a chance to speak to a helper from the Sultan Mosque who presented us with information we couldn’t find during our first trip.
While the National Heritage Centre has been instrumental in preserving the history of historical places like Kampong Glam, it can do more in maintaining the tidiness, to a certain extent, of certain areas. For instance, the Kubor cemetery is rather unkempt, and the ‘tombs of the Malayan princes’ should be maintained also. The pictures show that it is quite uncombed, and some of the tombs are half sunken.

Caleb

Jason's Reflections

The Heritage Trail has been an insightful trip. Our group was assigned to Kampong Glam, an area in Singapore I’ve never been to in my 22 years! It was heartwarming to be greeted with rows of shop houses and the tall standing Sultan Mosque upon our arrival. Really, it was as if we had taken a step back into the past, where our pace of life was not as hectic. Kampong Glam was given conservation status on 7 July 1989. The shop houses and particularly The Istana Kampong Glam were kept in pristine condition.

The Malay Heritage Centre provided me with the background knowledge of Kampong Glam. It was worth every cent of the ticket. We also met a group of primary school students on their history trip and I envisioned myself bringing my class here next time. As we walked down the streets of Kampong Glam, I had a glimpse of the traditional shops of Malay heritage selling textiles and perfume oils. Though I won’t be buying these in the near future, it was interesting to know more about the materials used by our Malay friends.

The 4 hours spent at Kampong Glam was enriching for me. I will definitely go back with my family and friends and share with them what I have learnt on my heritage trail. I feel that the National Heritage Board has done a good job in preserving these areas. Future generations should be exposed to the rich heritage of the 3 major races in Singapore, and to appreciate the humble place where our ancestors made a living and toll their lives. Anyone up for a trip to Chinatown and Little India?

Jason Chen

Don's Reflections

After having walked through Kampong Glam for the third time in my life, I am pretty glad that many aspects of early Singapore have been preserved. If it was not for the 1989 conservation plan, Kampong Glam could have been dug up and transformed into a urbanized area just like any other urbanized land. It was through this plan that heritage sites like the former Istana, Sultan Mosque and shophouses have been preserved.

I especially thought well of the idea to fusion traditional with modern trade. This was done by restoring the shophouses which used to exist as living quarters and converting them for commercial use. Many of these restored shophouses were turned into contemporary diners and fashion boutiques. At the same time, the traditional trade such as the selling of textiles and haj items was also preserved.

However, what I was disappointed with was that I could not find the Pondok Java! How was it possible that it was torn down in 2004 when there was a conservation plan in 1989? If it was not for a map that I had managed to find at Bussorah Street, I would have never known that such a place ever existed.

This made me realise how delicate history is. It could be there today and gone the next without anyone knowing. And if no proper documentation, archival or dissemination was done, history can just fade away with time. Therefore, it is important to leave traces behind for the generations to come. Otherwise, they will be left with untraceable roots and have little knowledge of their origins.

This reflection leads me to a suggestion. Which is to hang up plaques to commemorate or describe places that use to have historical significance. These plaques could also be opened up for citizens to purchase upon donating a sum of money to remind their generations to come of where did their ancestors used to live.

Our heritage is so prone to dissolve in the quick-to-evolve society of Singapore and it is time that we leave some traces behind for our future generations.

North Bridge Road

Jackson's 1822 Town Plan

North Bridge Road is one of the oldest roads that has existed in Singapore. It was one of the first three streets - High Street, Hill Street, North Bridge Road - which was paved by convict labourers. Although it was the roads were only officially built in 1833, proof from Lt. Phillip Jackson's Town plan shows that North Bridge Road existed as a track-path then. Given that it was one of the few roads which linked the suburbs to the town centre, North Bridge Road was considered as a major road in early Singapore. Basically, it stretches from modern day Singapore's Crawford Street to the Singapore River where it continues as South Bridge Road. Lined up along this street are prominent landmarks such as the Sultan Mosque, Chijmes and St. Andrew's Cathedral (known as St. Andrew's Church back then).


Other than towering skyscrapers in the background of today's North Bridge Roads everything else seems to have remained intact. The architecture of the shophouses are well preserved and many traditional trade such as aromatic oil and textiles are still being sold.

Textiles Trade

References:
http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_880_2004-12-28.html

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Malabar Muslim Jama-ath Mosque



Located at 471 Victoria Street, this mosque is the only one that is tiled blue in the whole of Singapore. This mosque is specially dedicated to Malabar Muslims. They hail from the South Indian state of Kerala.
Interestingly, the magnificent tiling was only completed in 1995, about 40 years after it started! It was opened only in 1963..apparently the mosque ran into cash flow problems. It was declared open on 24th January 1963 by Yang di-pertuan Negara Encik Yusof Bin Ishak.
The blue-tiled mosque, the only one on the island dedicated to Malabar Muslims from the South Indian state of Kerala. Because its walls are topped with a golden sphere, it is also famously known as the ‘Golden Dome Mosque’.


Information retrieved from:
http://www.timeoutsingapore.com/aroundtown/venues/religion/malabar-muslim-jamaah-mosque

Hajjah Fatimah Mosque



Hajjah Fatimah Mosque a.k.a. Fatimah Mosque, was built in 1846 along Java Road, in the Kampong Glam area. Hajjah Fatimah was a wealthy Malaccan-born businesswoman who traded in Singapore. The mosque was erected where she once lived, after her residence was ransacked and burnt twice (HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA).

The architectural style is a blend of ‘East meets West, heavily infused with Malaccan and european classical styles and it is well known for its uniquely designed minaret.

Timeline
1841-1853 : John Turnbull Thomson builds the minaret and ancillary buildings.
1845-1846 : Hajjah Fatimah commissions British architects to design the mosque. The work is carried out by FRENCH contractors and Malay labourers.
Pre-1870s : Hajjah Fatimah buried on the grounds.
Pre-1900 : Mausoleum for Hajjah Fatimah, her daughter and son-in-law is built.
1930 : Architects Chung and Wong design the new prayer hall which was rebuilt by Bossard Mopin, a FRENCH contractor, with the help of Malay artisans.

Looks like they LURVE everything French.

Lee Loy Hin Blacksmith Shop

Lee Loy Hin Blacksmith? Our group had no idea where this mysterious shop used to be. We walked up and down Sultan street umpteen times and had finally given up our search. We concluded that a nearby coffeeshop was what stood upon the once blacksmith shop.

It was only after I had conducted a search on the internet that I realised we were wrong. In fact, the blacksmith was once located at 39, Sultan Gate. And all that had remained of this blacksmith shop was charred ruins of a pre-war shop house. Reading up further about the shop had also informed me that the shop has been relocated to the Defu Industrial Park.



References

http://www.hsse.nie.edu.sg/staff/blackburnheritageSingaporetimelinekampongglam2003.html
http://www.kgba.org.sg/biz_sultangate.htm

Alsagoff Arab School




Founded in 1912 by..yes you guessed it, the ALSAGOFFS, a rich Arab family, the school was named for Syed Ahmad Alsagoff, a wealthy Arab merchant and philanthropist who was very influential in Singapore's early colonial days and who died in 1906. It is the oldest girls' school in Singapore, and was the island's first Muslim school. Focusing on religious schooling combined with subjects taught in mainstream schools, it is not surprising to note that most of its graduates go on to become religious teachers and leaders of madrasahs.

Sultan Mosque





This is the sultan mosque..built in 1826 with the assistance of the EIC’s donation of $3000. Sultan hussein proposed to build a mosque within the palace compound of Istana KG. We see don and tao jing listening intently as one of the mosque personnel attends to us. The present sultan mosque designed by denis sentry is in a saracenic style. Interesting to note that the 2 domes are made of glass bottles!

Pondok Java


Before it got demolished in 2004, the Pondok Java was located at the intersection of Kandahar Street and Pahang Street. Now what remains is an empty grass patch. It is marked out as number "4" on the map above.

2. What was it used for?
Originally, Pondok Java was used to house the early Javanese diaspora. It was also used as a drama house for entertainment.


Gedung Kuning @ 73 Sultan Gate


Gedung Kuning was formerly known as Rumah Bendahara before the late Haji Yusoff 'Tali Panggang' bought it in 1912. Bendahara in Malay meant "Chief Minister" and therefore it was home to Malay officials. The architecture of this building was fashioned after the Italian architect Andrea Palladio (1508 – 1580) designed Palladian-style houses in Italy. Two houses were built in this manner when the British came. One was built as the Sultan’s palace (Istana) and the other was built for the Chief Minister.

1. Who used to live in this house located at 73 Sultan Gate?
Its first occupant was to be Tengku Mahmud, heir to the Sultan's throne (Cornelius-Takahama, 1999). In 1912, a Malay businessman and philanthropist by the name of Haji Yusoff Bin Haji Mohamed Noor bought the Rumah Bendahara. Haji Yusoff was affectionately known as ‘Tali Panggang’ because of his trade as a belt merchant.

2. Why was the mansion painted yellow?
The mansion at 73 Sultan Gate only got its name, “Gedung Kuning” which means yellow mansion after 2003. It was painted yellow because yellow signified the royal colour of the Malays (Cornelius-Takahama, 1999).


References
1. http://www.gedungkuning.com/
2. http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_748_2004-12-24.html

Kubor Muslim Cemetery



As you can see from the pictures this plot of land is rather unkempt. And guess what! It was labeled as ‘Tombs of the Malayan Princes’ in J B Tassin’s 1836 map. So disrespectful. Princes are royalty! Also interesting to note that the stonemasons were Chinese, meaning to say that they were the ones who carved the words on the tombstones of the Malayan princes.

the surroundings..

One of the many information boards on the Bugis people

Gelam tree planted by Assoc. Prof. Dr. Yaacob Imbrahim
Minister in charge of Muslim Affairs

Bugis Prahhu
The Bugis people fishes and possess many trading vessels

Sneak preview of the museum..

Score sheet and Record of the National Anthem


Movie set for 1957 Shaw Brothers film Bujang Lapok
Many Many Models and Artefacts


Exhibits of Malay boats



Exhibit of Orang Laut’s fishing boat





Malay Heritage Museum

A venue of Malay Culture appreciation and workshops

*George Coleman designed the new Istana in 1835.


Entrance facing Sultan gate, built in 1840


A hot spot for tourists and students


Standing on the site of Kampong Gelam

Malay Heritage Centre aka Istana Kampong Glam


Kris of various shape and sizes in the Malay Gallery shop
This shop sells traditional Malay handicraft, including Kris
Bussorah Street leads up to the Sultan Mosque. It is a popular tourist attraction as seen from the pictures. Many of the items on sale here are souvenirs for the tourists, which are exorbitantly priced.
Another view of the Pintu Pagar along Kandahar Street.
Shophouses Nos. 44-54 along Kandahar Street reflect the late shophouse style (1900-1940). Notice the swinging saloon doors? These are called Pintu Pagar and they are commonly found in front of the main doors of residential shophouses. They provide some privacy to the front hall from the public five foot way.
Kandahar street is named after the third largest city in Afghanistan, reflecting the Arabic influence in this area.
Textile shops such as the one above, perfumes shops and traditional handicrafts shops are common along Arab street.
Arab street was named after the Singapore Arab population during the colonial years. It was once owned by an Arab merchant, Syed Ali bin Mohamed Al Junied. The street names in this area reflect the names of the capital of Arabic countries, such as Muscat (capital of Oman) and Baghdad (capital of Iraq).
Our journey to Kampong Glam begins here, on a bright and sunny Friday afternoon.